Golgulsa Temple Stay on New Year's Eve

We did something different this New Years. We headed to Golgulsa temple near Gyeongju for a temple stay at a Buddhist temple that practices the ancient martial art of Sunmudo. There was a special itinerary for the holiday at a cost of 50,000 won per person (just under $50). We arrived at 3 PM on Wednesday, New Year's Eve. Dinner was served at 5 PM after we had a couple hours to explore the temple grounds. Alex did a little more exploring than I, got lost and nearly missed dinner. However, all was ok.

The entrance to Golgulsa Temple

Sunmudo demonstration. These guys are serious.

Paying respects in a cozy grotto temple at the top of the temple grounds.

After dinner we were taught a bit about the practices of the temple and had a 90 minute Sunmudo class. Sunmudo is a martial art that is a form of meditation. There is no contact, no tournaments, no fights. It's merely a way to center your chi, and relax your body and mind. I didn't do my research so I was a little disappointed in the lack of much that felt like a martial art.  It was more like Yoga, which I'm not really into, but it was still a cool experience. Alex loved every moment of it. So if you are into yoga and meditation, this temple stay is a great combination of the two.

Our lesson ended at 9 PM and afterwards was the ceremony of 1,080 bows that lasted two hours. After a few bows I was feeling it in my knees feet. It's more intense than it sounds for a non-yoga person. Alex and I bowed out of finishing all 1,080. There was also a bell ceremony at midnight for New Years, but since wake up was at 5 AM, we decided to try and get some sleep instead.

The beginning of the 1,080 bows. We didn't make it very far.  

We woke at 5:10 AM and got ready for morning meditation before breakfast. Breakfast was a delicious version of the traditional New Years Day rice cake soup. We had to finish every bit of our food and I always took too much and ended up stuffing myself. With only three vegan meals a day and no snacks I was worried about being hungry between meals.

Delicious 6 AM breakfast of spicy rice cake soup with vegetables. 

 After breakfast, we piled in cars and one big bus and were driven 40 minutes to the beach. There we awaited the sunrise while the monks lit a bonfire and chanted. The conditions were great for sunrise but it was frigid. After the sunrise, we practiced the Sunmudo moves we learned the day before on the beach while a local news crew filmed us fumbling over the choreography.

Watching the sunrise on the beach is a tradition in Korea. There was a line of people all the way down the shoreline. It was hard to get a picture of the sunrise without having a crowd in the foreground.

When we returned to the temple, we had an hour and a half to rest before having teatime with the oldest and wisest monk. He answered any questions people had about the temple, buddhism, love and life. Afterwards, we were shown a Sunmudo demonstration by the masters. This was followed by lunch and we were then free to checkout. Overall, it was great and unique experience. It was certainly a different and introspective start to a new year. Happy New Year everyone! Namaste.

Teatime with the wisest monk. 

The five Sunmudo masters

Lunch before checkout. Our last delicious vegan meal. You heard me. 

Gyeongju Winter Break

Alex and I headed south for a few day getaway during our winter break. We took the KTX, a train that travels 190 mph, to Gyeongju in the Southeast of the Korean peninsula. Gyeongju is the oldest city in South Korea and the small city was riddled with tombs of kings and ancient carvings of Buddha.

Leaving breadcrumbs

A Buddha on Namsan built between the 8th or 9th century.

Stopping to admire the view near the peak of Namsan

Alex descends Namsan using a rope in front of one of many headless Buddha stone reliefs. 

One the many tombs scattered throughout Gyeongju. This one is right in front of our motel. 

Alex in heaven. We tried the Gyeongju specialty Sam Bap which is a meal of side dishes (ban chan). We were served 29 unlimited side dishes for 12,000 won per person. I was underwhelmed. Many of the dishes were fermented and I found them inedible. The 12-14 dishes that were "good" were the ones I've had before and were nothing special.  This just wasn't for me. For me, ban chan are side dishes that come free with a real meal in Korea. 

The oldest astrological observatory in East Asia

Reflection breaking through the ice.  

Anapji Pond, Gyeongju, South Korea 

We tried the famous bean bread pastry of Gyeongju at this staple locale that has been in business since 1935. They were good, but nothing special and ovepriced. They were 800 won for a quarter sized cube of red bean filled bread. At Namdaemun market in Seoul I get a hot fresh bean bun that's 10 times the size for 1,000 won. Maybe I just don't get it. 

The tombs by our motel at night. 

Bulguksa Temple

This architectural feat of a building is an inverse of a pagoda. It is completely hollow in the middle. Sadly this was the best angle I could get at is as we were waiting for a bus in 10 degree weather that I couldn't afford to miss. 

Seokguram Grotto. Inside this cave was one of the most intricate stone carvings I've even seen. The whole grotto was filled with beautiful stonework of columns and carvings with a massive Buddha as a centerpiece. Sadly, there was no photography inside.  

Our 2nd night back at our N Motel (a love motel), we were given a free upgrade to a deluxe room. This was one of the nicest rooms I've ever stayed in. For only $34 a night, it was a massive room with a huge flatscreen, 6 piece sound system, a computer, a king size bed, hot and cold water dispenser, a fridge, a jacuzzi tub for two, a shower with a steam setting, and a separate room with a high tech toilet. I was in heaven. 

An amazing jacuzzi tub in possibly the best bathroom I've seen.

This high tech toilet is common around Korea, however they are not always functioning. This was an interesting first for me. 

As tempting as it was to lounge in our super fancy room all morning until our train, we rushed out to the historic, traditional Korean village of Yangdong. This 500 year old village is a World Heritage site. It was neat to see a sprawling group of both clay and straw roofed houses still occupied by descendants of the original families.