Last Lunch in Arequipa

Alex, Jacob and I returned to Arequipa from our trip to Puno, Bolivia and Chile for a couple of last days with our friends. We had an afternoon bus to catch to Cusco and plenty of time for one last amazing feast with our friends. We had been meaning to try the famous LA Palomino restaurant that was a mere two blocks from our apartment in Yanahuara but we had been waiting for the right special occasion. It's one of the more expensive restaurants in the city and known for its typical Southern Peruvian cuisine.

We went with our good friends Sam and Julitza, and were met by Connie and Thijs. While we were crossing things off our Arequipa list last minute, Jacob and I decided to try two of the most famous Arequipan dishes, Chupe De Camarones (Shrimp Soup) and Cuy (Guinea Pig).

Photo credit to Jacob on all this.

Julitza and her big gulp of chicha

The shrimp soup is seasonal as it's only legal to fish for shrimp at certain times of the year to prevent over fishing. This means, when it's shrimp season, they are massive. The soup was enough to fill both of us but we saved some room for the Cuy. 

Chupe de Camarones

The Cuy came fried whole on a plate. The look of this was far from appetizing. It's not often you eat a rodent after looking it in the face. We took turns taking our first bites for photo ops. I really can't tell you how gross this experience was. It turned my stomach way more than my sheep head soup experience in San Camilo. It was tough, stringy, greasy and difficult to gnaw off a good piece without feeling like a zombie. I'm glad I tried it and crossed it off the list…but never again.

Fried Cuy

Chiguata

We took a day trip, our last weekend in Arequipa, out into the countryside. We found our way to Chiguata, located at the base of El Misti and just a couple miles from the Salinas y Aguada Blanca National Reserve (10 miles east of the city of Arequipa). We were looking for a hiking path that we were told was scenic and peaceful.

We hopped a combi to a cab and finally made our way to the plaza of Chiguata. After inquiring about the path to the lady in the bodega next to the church, she pointed us down the dirt road towards Misti that would turn into another dirt road that would turn out to be the path we sought out.

Snowcapped Pichu Pichu in the background. 

After settled on our path, the foregrounds began to flow like lava as Misti towered over the green valley. The sky was so big and blue until the territorial Eagle seemed displeased with our presence. At that point the sun was falling in the sky so we decided we had sufficient fun and headed back to catch a crowded combi home.

Colca Canyon

I landed back in the States a week ago and I'm finally getting around to sorting through and posting pictures from the rest of our travels over the last three months. First on the list chronologically is our trip to Colca Canyon. Alex had two friends visiting us from the states, Christina and Ceciley. They had plans to go to Colca, the 2nd deepest canyon in the world, while myself and my friend Jacob had plans to one-up them and spend a few days in the more remote (and deepest canyon in the world) Cotawasi Canyon. We figured separate guys and girls canyon time would be cool. However, for some reason all of the bus tickets were sold out to Cotawasi, so we scrapped our plans and I tagged along with the girls to Colca. Thanks for letting me crash Girls Hike!

I have to start by saying that Colca Canyon is TWICE AS DEEP AS THE GRAND CANYON! It is an incredible 13,650 feet deep! That's almost as deep as the tallest US mountain is tall! This may be easier than hiking into Cotawasi (because Cotawasi is more remote) but this will not be easy. Pack your bag but keep it light.

We used our usual guide company Wayki Tours and had Joel as our guide. We woke up around 3:30 AM, grabbed our bags and headed to our scheduled pick-up spot at Plaza Yanahuara. We got on a bus with a dozen other travelers who made up two different tour groups. Two hours or so later, the sun was up and we were ready to start Day 1. The descent into the canyon and down to the river, lasted about 3 hours where we crossed a bridge. From there, it was another 3 hours to the Oasis, where a refreshing pool awaited us, impossible to resist.

The following day was a steep 3 hour gluteus building workout. I will not mention names, but some of our party rode mules instead.

I took over 700 pictures on this two day hike so that could be part of the reason why it's taken me this long to make this post. That's also the reason why there will be so many pictures below, and few words. Colca Canyon top 24. Enjoy.

We were lucky to see the condors cruising at Cruz Del Condor

Early view of the Oasis as we walk away from it on the wrong side of the river towards the bridge.  It kind of looks like South America from here. 

oh man, I want one

Tiny Bridge!

This cross was erected by the Spanish at an ancient and spiritual place where the indigenous people worshipped only the earth through puma, condor and snake. 

Oasis. So close. 

My shoulder-massaging waterfalls

From the top! We climbed out of Colca!

The Colca Canyon Kids!

On the ride home we stopped to check out some grazing Alpaca

Caldo De Cabeza (Sheep Head Soup)

My roomate Jacob had one request on his birthday: to eat Caldo De Cabeza (Sheep Head Soup) in San Camilo Market. My other roommates Thijs, Menina and I all contemplated this idea and decided to honor the request. We headed to San Camilo knowing that it would be a risky choice of venue for such an order but also knowing no other place would do. We went up the stairs to the second floor of the market which is a mere fraction of the size of the first floor and where you can find many traditional, cheap and "colorful" places to pull up a stool.


Mind you, as I mentioned in my previous post about San Camilo, it is not recommended by locals to eat here as it is not as clean or fresh. Nevertheless, this would be my 4th roll of the dice with lunch at San Camilo and I was a confident 3 for 3 without issue. The last time I ate there, I went with Jacob and we drank juice made with tap water as the locals laughed at us and mocked "rico" meaning delicious as they drank from their bottles of soda.


We sat at what looked like a popular spot at the entrance of the food court where locals seemed to be enjoying their dishes. The place was called Anita, which I can only assume is the name of one of the two women who were preparing the food, washing the dishes, and serving the customers. All of the operations here at San Camilo were run something like this with only a couple of tables to serve between 4 and 8 people at a time. We ordered our Caldo de Cabeza and hoped for the best.

When it came, it looked delicious and well prepared and smelled like many of the other soups we've eaten. The word caldo actually means broth or soup and this broth was quite delicious. There were plenty of potatoes and corn in there as well. I honestly enjoyed it and ate all of it except for some unidentifiable chunk of flesh and bone. Jacob's soup had the jaw of the sheep and it looked pretty freaky. I guess it was only fair that the birthday boy had the obviously identifiable piece of face to fulfill his birthday wishes. The dish was 8 soles ($3) each and I think I'd recommend the experience if you ever get the chance to order it.

Arequipa - Mercado San Camilo

So much fruit! So cheap and so good.

San Camilo is one of the biggest markets in Arequipa and is conveniently located downtown just four blocks from the Plaza De Armas. This amazing tin roof covered market spans an entire city block and stands as an epicenter of waves of shops reaching a radius of up to three or four blocks past the actual market itself. These blocks are made up of many ferias which are often no more than a narrow indoor hallway off the street cluttered with many small shops selling similar items. This is a cheap place to get snacks, clothes, copied DVDs and daily household items.

The market has some of the best prices for fresh fruits, vegetables, cheeses, etc. There are also plenty of stands that sell various meats and fish but all of the locals I have spoken with would rather not buy these items at San Camilo. If you do, I suggest you get there early in the morning as there is no refrigeration so everything sits out all day. However, our 2nd day in Arequipa, Alex and I got Ceviche in San Camilo in the afternoon and it was delicious! It only cost us 5 soles ($2) and was enough for both of us. Later, our Arequipeñan friends told us we were crazy and daring to get Ceviche there. It may not be the best idea to get Ceviche there, but if you are ever in Arequipa, I highly suggest grabbing  some cheese and fruit at San Camilo.

Our vegetable lady (casera). A heavy bag of all the vegetables you could want costs about 12 soles ($5).

La triste mujera de pescado

Mi Casero de papas. This guy will dig deep in his sack and give you the biggest potatoes you've ever seen. They are the size of mangos. Verdad. 

Alex and I ate Ceviche at one of these food kiosks 

All the chicken heads, be quiet! Single ladies, make noise! 

Mi Casera de queso

Best. Palta. Around.

This is the spot for hojas de coca (coca leaves). See my post on coca leaves for more info.