Jeju Island

The famous Jeju Island statues

So now that I have time during my winter vacation, here are pictures from our summer vacation. I haven't been so good with this blogging thing recently.

We spent a week on Jeju Island for our summer break. We managed to find cheap flights ($200 round trip from Seoul) and went for it. Jeju is a pretty large volcanic island that is a part of South Korea. It is huge for tourism, with its beautiful beaches with surprisingly turquoise waters, walking and hiking paths leading to massive waterfalls, and of course, a volcano to climb that is the highest peak in Korea.

It often took us an hour or two to get to parts of the island we wanted to explore. We stayed at a great hostel called Yeha Guesthouse a few blocks from the main bus terminal. It was a fantastic location with a very nice and helpful English speaking staff. We could walk to downtown Jeju city in 20 minutes for dinner and drinks or to the Island's main bus terminal in only 5 minutes.  Yeha had bikes to use for just 5,000 won, breakfast included and tvs in the room with USB slots. We had a great stay and would recommend it for English speakers looking for a value in a great location on this famous volcanic island getaway.

Where there are volcanoes, there's lava. Where there is lava, there are lava tubes. Jeju Island boasts the longest lava tube in the world and we were lucky enough to walk inside it.

We took a short ferry to Udo Island for the day. This small island off the northeast of Jeju island is tiny in comparison and super low key. We rented bikes, checked out the beaches and sampled some of their famous peanut ice cream. We met up with Michael and Lizzy, a cool couple we met on the island.

Udo Island

Our friends Lizzy and Michael whom we met in a GS on Jeju a few days earlier. 

The cliff off the side of the crater we climbed on Jeju which happens to be really close to the ferry port to Udo Island. Sadly, it was cloudy so there was zero visibility of the inside of the crater from the top. 

Having fun with dozens of drying octopus

Michael and Lizzy at a hookah bar with live music 

The famous Jeju female divers going through the days catch.

A panoramic view from southern Jeju Island

Double date delicious beer at the Boris Brewery in Jeju City

We made it to the top of Mt Halla, the tallest peak in South Korea! My third volcano summit. We made it up in about 4 hours and down in about 3. Our hostel was surprised to see us back so soon. Zoom.

On our hike down from Mt Hala. Jeju city is far in the distance. 

Mt Halla

DMZ and JSA

Yesterday, Alex and I went on the USO tour of the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) and the JSA (Joint Security Area). Although we could have seen most of the sights on our own or with a cheaper tour, the USO tour is the only one that gives access to the JSA, which was by far the best part of the tour. It was a pretty wild experience and an excellent history lesson on the conflict. The timing couldn't have been more interesting as we watched The Interview the night before. We figured there may be amped up tension over the release of the movie, but at the DMZ it was business as usual.

If I learned anything from the one-sided account of events, it's that North Korea is completely unreasonable, unpredictable, and unwilling to compromise. The Korean War sadly cost the lives of 3 million Koreans, separated families, and left 25 million North Koreans completely isolated, impoverished, and starving.

When the 40 year Japanese occupation of Korea came to an end after WWII it was divided into North and South to hopefully make for easier governance. In 1948, Kim Il Sung was elected leader of the North, and Syngman Rhee was elected as the first president of South Korea. Before the final elections were set, there were documents between the North Koreans and the Soviet Union outlining the North's plan of attack on the South. The North launched a surprise attack and the rest is history. To this day, Kim Jong Un reigns in the North, the grandson of Kim Il Sung.

Pushing together the two Koreas 

Everything at the DMZ symbolizes peace and the hope for unification of the two sides of the country. However, the threats from the North seem constant. Even after the signing of the armistice, when the two sides agreed to end the violence and lines were drawn, the North built tunnels under the DMZ with hopes of attacking Seoul once again. We had the chance to walk through the third of four that were found by the South. Who knows how many more exist.

Alex looking out over North Korea

We could take a train all the way to Portugal if the Koreas united. 

The end of the line. The last stop before North Korea at Dorasan Station. Alex is chilling in the reflection. 

This station was built in hopes of allowing travel between North and South Korea for families to reunite. It was used for goods to cross the border but hasn't yet been used for passengers. Time will tell. 

They told us many times not to board. There was a South Korean military officer standing between us and the north here. When Alex backed up a step to take a picture, he backed up a step as well. He wouldn't let me photograph him. 

Alex and I in the JSA (Joint Security Area). Alex is standing in North Korea. We were warned not to get within 6 inches of this soldier or he would be forced to take action. He stood like a stone with his fists clenched. This room was intense. 

The second security guard in the JSA stood guarding the locked door to North Korea. Apparently the American who defected recently was on this tour. He considering an attempt to pass through this man and decided against it at the last minute. 

The border of North and South Korea. The building in the background is the North Korean Peace House. Sadly there were no North Korean guards other than the man at the top of the stairs in the distance. 

The Propaganda Village of North Korea. The eiffel tower looking thing is the 3rd largest flagpole in the world standing at 160 meters. The buildings are apparently empty. We were told the top floor at night were the brightest at night and the light got dimmer down each floor. So they assume the buildings are actually a large open building with a light at the top. This village used to blast propaganda from loudspeakers for 12-18 hours a day. 

The Bridge of No Return. This bridge divides the North and South. After the war, they had operation Big Switch and Little Switch where they traded their POWs. The South Returned 82,000 and the North returned 13,000. They were given a choice at the bridge of which country to go to. However, once they crossed, they would not return (hence the name). We were told to thank Bill Clinton for not being able to get out of the bus to see the bridge. The story goes that he walked too far out on the bridge and was almost shot by a soldier on the North Korean side. 

Haeundae Beach Market - Busan

Haeundae Beach in Busan, South Korea is amazing and so is the market that runs parallel to it one block from the sand. It's a narrow alley spanning the width of a city block with everything you could need from restaurants to dumpling stands to clothing stores to disgusting entertainment. One of the things that they are known for there is their eel. This guys skins eels alive for maximum freshness and I'm guessing it's also to attract customers. Take a look:

 Sadly, we didn't sample the eel as the time we were there, it was to settle a craving for Mandu. We are going back in a month so I will try and give the eel a go and get back to you.

Steamed Mandu

Alex kindly offers the Mandu lady a sip of her Cass Light 

Geumjung Mountain Fortress and Seokbulsa Temple

While in Busan, Alex and I headed out to do some hiking. We had read about about the massive Geumjung Mountain Fortress and it's expanse of hiking trails. We sought out Seokbulsa Temple, which we had read had beautiful rock carvings into the mountain where it was nestled. We went on Buddha's birthday which we thought might be an extra special (or busy) time to see the marvel.

Getting to Seokbulsa Temple:

We took the gondola up which apparently saved us 45 minutes to an hour of hiking. It was $7 roundtrip and we enjoyed the view. Once at the top we began hiking to the South Gate. In Koren, South Gate is 남문, so look for signs for 남문. When the path splits without a sign, take the path on the left. It will lead you to the picture featured below:

Once you find yourself and the foot volley courts shown here, follow that girl to get to the Seokbulsa Temple. Then turn left at the next path.

You'll then come to this sign, a kilometer or two from the foot volley courts. Follow this couple down the rock "stairs." When you get to a road, take a right. The road will get crazy steep but you can do it. You'll be at the entrance to the temple in less than 30 minutes.

Seokbulsa Temple in Busa, Korea

The stone carvings were absolutely stunning for their detail. The scale of them and their location made it all the more...spiritual. I really don't understand how they did it. The outdoor prayer area was surrounded by 7 or 8 enormous statues carved into the mountain itself. 

It was hazy, but the view from Seokbulsa Temple was incredible.

The clockwise swastika is apparently a Buddhist symbol for good fortune used long before the Nazi's.

 The South Gate of Geumjung Mountain Fortress:

Defending The Realm

note: All photos were shot with my 50mm lens (hence the lack of better landscapes).