DMZ and JSA

Yesterday, Alex and I went on the USO tour of the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) and the JSA (Joint Security Area). Although we could have seen most of the sights on our own or with a cheaper tour, the USO tour is the only one that gives access to the JSA, which was by far the best part of the tour. It was a pretty wild experience and an excellent history lesson on the conflict. The timing couldn't have been more interesting as we watched The Interview the night before. We figured there may be amped up tension over the release of the movie, but at the DMZ it was business as usual.

If I learned anything from the one-sided account of events, it's that North Korea is completely unreasonable, unpredictable, and unwilling to compromise. The Korean War sadly cost the lives of 3 million Koreans, separated families, and left 25 million North Koreans completely isolated, impoverished, and starving.

When the 40 year Japanese occupation of Korea came to an end after WWII it was divided into North and South to hopefully make for easier governance. In 1948, Kim Il Sung was elected leader of the North, and Syngman Rhee was elected as the first president of South Korea. Before the final elections were set, there were documents between the North Koreans and the Soviet Union outlining the North's plan of attack on the South. The North launched a surprise attack and the rest is history. To this day, Kim Jong Un reigns in the North, the grandson of Kim Il Sung.

Pushing together the two Koreas 

Everything at the DMZ symbolizes peace and the hope for unification of the two sides of the country. However, the threats from the North seem constant. Even after the signing of the armistice, when the two sides agreed to end the violence and lines were drawn, the North built tunnels under the DMZ with hopes of attacking Seoul once again. We had the chance to walk through the third of four that were found by the South. Who knows how many more exist.

Alex looking out over North Korea

We could take a train all the way to Portugal if the Koreas united. 

The end of the line. The last stop before North Korea at Dorasan Station. Alex is chilling in the reflection. 

This station was built in hopes of allowing travel between North and South Korea for families to reunite. It was used for goods to cross the border but hasn't yet been used for passengers. Time will tell. 

They told us many times not to board. There was a South Korean military officer standing between us and the north here. When Alex backed up a step to take a picture, he backed up a step as well. He wouldn't let me photograph him. 

Alex and I in the JSA (Joint Security Area). Alex is standing in North Korea. We were warned not to get within 6 inches of this soldier or he would be forced to take action. He stood like a stone with his fists clenched. This room was intense. 

The second security guard in the JSA stood guarding the locked door to North Korea. Apparently the American who defected recently was on this tour. He considering an attempt to pass through this man and decided against it at the last minute. 

The border of North and South Korea. The building in the background is the North Korean Peace House. Sadly there were no North Korean guards other than the man at the top of the stairs in the distance. 

The Propaganda Village of North Korea. The eiffel tower looking thing is the 3rd largest flagpole in the world standing at 160 meters. The buildings are apparently empty. We were told the top floor at night were the brightest at night and the light got dimmer down each floor. So they assume the buildings are actually a large open building with a light at the top. This village used to blast propaganda from loudspeakers for 12-18 hours a day. 

The Bridge of No Return. This bridge divides the North and South. After the war, they had operation Big Switch and Little Switch where they traded their POWs. The South Returned 82,000 and the North returned 13,000. They were given a choice at the bridge of which country to go to. However, once they crossed, they would not return (hence the name). We were told to thank Bill Clinton for not being able to get out of the bus to see the bridge. The story goes that he walked too far out on the bridge and was almost shot by a soldier on the North Korean side.