Luang Prabang, Laos

After a miserable trip (see previous post) we arrived in Luang Prabang, Laos around 11 PM. We had planned on arriving before 5 PM so we didn't have a guesthouse booked. We intended to shop around. There were only a couple open at that hour and one asked "why so late?" Don't get us started. We opted for LPQ backpackers because the other place was floor mats only. 

The next day we changed guest houses to Suan Keo as it was cheaper, with a more comfortable bed and ensuite bathroom. We then walked around the hot, sleepy town to get our bearings. We climbed up to Wat Phusi which had a great panoramic view of the city and the Mekong River. 

This town is really low key and relaxing with great food, a great night market and fun excursions to take during the day. The sandwiches here were excellent with so many choices from 10-20K kip. We found one stand that we became regulars at for both breakfast and lunch. 

The night market is extensive and a sweet reprieve from the hassling at markets in Vietnam. At the Luang Prabang market, its a relaxed, no pressure atmosphere with interesting and good quality goods for cheap prices. I bought a couple pairs of pajama pants I didn't really need just because it was so comfortable to look around. 

The night market also featured a covered food section running perpendicular to both the market street and the river. This place featured tons of choices but the real find halfway down is the 15,000 Kip ($2) buffet. You can fill up a massive bowl with your choice of rice, noodles, potatoes, spring rolls, fried mushrooms, greens, fruit, tofu, etc. It's definitely the best deal in town but it does get pretty hot under that low, aluminum roof. 

Our second day in town, we hopped in a tuk tuk to the famous Kuang Si waterfalls. There we met a cool group of people including a couple from Israel, Mor and Yarden, and Bart and Manook from the Netherlands. As we approached the waterfalls, I was surprised to see a bear rescue center and many signs about the importance of conservation. 

There were many many waterfalls, all with beautiful turquoise water. A few of the falls had swimming holes. The best and most crowded pool had a tree overhanging it and people were jumping off the tree. My new friends Mor and Bart happened to be the craziest jumpers. There was also one old European guy who had balls but lacked form. 

That night we met up with the waterfall gang at Utopia, a cool bar on the river with music, hookah, thai pillow cushions, a garden and even a sand volleyball court. Afterwards, before the 11:30 PM curfew shut down the bars, we headed to the late night bowling alley for some barefoot bowling. Alex was smashing pins. 

The following day Alex and I rented bicycles, rode along the Mekong, and tried finding another set of waterfalls. We hiked through an overgrown path with trees fallen across it in a big loop to realize that the waterfalls were pretty dried up. We then met a nice couple from England and together we searched out a wading pool and finally settled on the one within eyesight of the entrance (ugh). 

The next morning we left at 8:30 AM on a 3-4 hour mini bus to Vang Vieng. 

Next stop Vang Vieng!